I had a hard time getting them off though as it was my first time DESOLDERING components like that from a PCB. I'm not concerned about soldering them on, that will be easy. Let's hope I didn't damage any through-holes on my PCB removing the old one. I won't be recieving them for over a month likely, so it will be quite sometime before I get to actually install and test them. I can change the potentiometers out on the joystick modules to have the exact same finished joystick in the long run. So I had to buy the potentiometers, which surely are not OEM I imagine, but do look the same and would expect to operate the same. I have read some numbers refer to sensitivity, their "curve" type such as linear or logarithmic etc, dead zone space if one exists, etc. For ex, I found the proper analog stick module, but the potentiometers on it have different numbers on them suggesting they operate different. I actually had a hard time finding them on Aliexpress even. My main issue was not finding anything for sale in the good ol' USA! I really did NOT want to buy parts from China, but I came to the conclusion this is the only way to finish this project I started. I also tore apart an old Microsoft OEM Xbox 360 wireless controller for comparison and the one I have is clearly larger than both the PowerA unit, and the Xbox One replacement unit I bought (which is an ALPS branded unit) Link below showing the Xbox 360 one that seems close However, the stick is plastic and larger. Summarizing what I have found.Īt least one or some Xbox 360 joysticks have the exact same potentiometers evident of the "6 0 B 103" in the corners of them. So I have now done a lot more research but have not found the exact same looking joystick yet. I also stupidly didn't realize I got the ones with a thicker plastic post instead of the thin metal post, but that seems like something I can work around if need be. This means I can position it to line up a particular set of pins, but the others wont line up, or vise versa. They are all spaced the same, but positioned different. So what I mean is the pins will not all line up to the PCB. But not until I tore apart the controller and de-soldered the joystick, did I realize the replacements I bought have the "click" (the downward push function of most modern joysticks) in a different position. From everything I read and watched I really thought I was buying the right part.
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